Nature
Photography: Great Leaping
Lemurs!
 Madagascar’s tourism industry is
counting on a lemur-led recovery.
Words and pics by Roderick Eime
When the vast island continent of Madagascar wrenched itself
free from the mighty Gondwanaland tens of millions of years ago,
it took with it a veritable Noah’s Ark of plant and animal
species, and established itself as a unique ecosystem that remains
so to this day. But only just.
The planet’s eighth continent has remained largely undisturbed
for the majority of its existence and has only felt the influence
of man in the last two thousand years. In this short time, hungry
humans have deforested 85% of the landmass, felled huge boabab,
tamarind and ebony stands, remodelled vast tracts for agriculture
and placed most of the endemic flora and fauna on the endangered
and threatened lists.
Yet even as a developing country with some of the poorest people
in the world, Madagascar retains a unique beauty and charm that
attracts tourists, adventurers and scientists from all over the
globe. But as an evolving nation still struggling to distance
itself from a hectic colonial past, the population’s priorities
are not necessarily focussed on environmental conservation and
preservation.
A healthy recovery in tourist traffic was rudely interrupted
in mid-2002 by a bout of internal strife that saw bridges destroyed,
roads blocked and the already delicate infrastructure further
upset. That behind them, the now legitimised government can get
on with resurrecting the economy and protecting the remaining
valuable biodiversity.
What little the world knows about Madagascar is thanks to people
like Sir David Attenborough whose amazing BBC television series
featured the highly engaging and animated lemurs, chameleons and
birds. John Cleese’s self-confessed love affair with the
ring-tailed lemur also helped put these delightful creatures on
the screen and in the hearts of the world.
Consequently, ask any recent or prospective visitor to Madagascar
what first comes to mind and they’ll almost certainly answer; "the
lemurs".
 Despite their cute, cuddly teddy-bear looks, lemurs are primates,
albeit an early incarnation that pre-dates the apes of neighbouring
Africa. Madagascar has fifty surviving varieties (five families
and fourteen genera) ranging from the 25g mouse-sized Pygmy Mouse
Lemur to the very vocal Indri Indri which would, if it could,
stand over a metre tall.
There are several locations dotted around the island where visitors
can get a true up-close-and-personal experience with lemurs. Berenty
in the south is famous for its Ring-Tailed Lemurs, Périnet
in the east has both the Black and White Ruffed as well as the
Brown Lemurs, while Lokobe and Nosy Komba on the northwest island
of Nosy Be have semi-tame groups of Black Lemurs.
Probably the best known of these locations is Berenty Reserve
near the historic southern port and tourist town of Fort Dauphin.
Visited as much by bona-fide researchers as tourists, the lodge-style
accommodation is roomy, clean and comfortable even if some find
it pricey by Madagascan standards. The reserve itself was established
in 1936 as something of a concession to the burgeoning sisal industry
that is responsible for over thirty thousand hectares of cleared
land around Berenty. The lodge’s owner and local sisal baron,
Jean de Heaulme, maintains the reserve as much out of pragmatism
as philanthropy and has even received a WWF award for his efforts.
The 260 preserved hectares of endemic tamarind and spiny forest
around Berenty are but a fraction of what once existed. Certainly,
a completely profit-driven enterprise could have destroyed it
all, so perhaps we should be grateful for small mercies. The forests
provide a valuable compliment to any visit with both day and evening
guided strolls enhancing the visitors’ understanding of
the important role played by the remaining native vegetation.
Tourists were not introduced to Berenty until the 1980s and their
impact was immediate. The ravenous bands of tame Ring-Tailed Lemurs
that now patrol the grounds around the bungalows are the result
of unmonitored hand-feeding. These animals have become reliant
on tourist-supplied bananas, and now that this practice has been
greatly reduced, they are suffering from as yet undiagnosed, but
probably diet-related maladies that include weight loss and patchy
fur. In contrast, their siblings who live exclusively in the forest
are in excellent condition.
Acknowledged lemur expert, Alison Jolly, who has studied these
animals closely for decades believes a strict rationing of bananas
could bridge the gap between visitor satisfaction and interference
in this case. Experts are, however, unanimous in their verdict
that no supplementary feeding should take place in the forest.
 This debate aside, any guest at Berenty is sure to be delighted
with simple observation of these exquisite animals. In late afternoon,
small bands of White Sifakas skip merrily across the open ground
between trees in a curious upright fashion that is a distinct
visual highlight. These attractive, if sometimes ungainly, creatures
are completely disinterested in tourist offered food, preferring
instead their usual diet of leaves, buds and flowers.
Travel Tips:
Madagascar is best suited to open-minded travellers with
an interest in nature, ecology
and culture. Nature and wildlife
photographers and videographers
will be in their element, so
take plenty of film and tape. Be prepared
for minor disruptions to travel
schedules and have patience with
service staff - they work at
their own pace.
Fact File:
Best time to visit: May to October
Visas: Three month validity.
Obtain prior to arrival.
Health: Take precautions against
malaria, hepatitis and diarrhoea.
Best currency to use: Euro
Electricity: mainly European
220V standard
Getting There: Australians will need to fly via Mauritius
utilising a combination of Air Mauritius, Air Austral and
Air Madagascar. It can be complicated and schedules vary,
so consult an experienced agent.
Getting Around: Air Madagascar operates a comprehensive
internal network that is definitely the way to cover longer
distances. Keep road travel to short distances as conditions
vary enormously.
Travel to, and accommodation at, Berenty is best organised
as part of a complete travel package, although committed
independent travellers can make their own arrangements at
local hotels in Fort Dauphin.
Adventure Associates organises annual group tours to Madagascar
departing in September. Contact them on (02) 9389 7466 or
1800 222 141 or visit www.adventureassociates.com.
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